Thursday, March 23, 2006

Surfing In The Rain

I love to surf in the rain. I love to close my eyes, turn my head up, and feel the drops kiss my face. The salt washes away, leaving my body refreshed. Life slows down, stretching each second to feel more like a minute. I don't want to leave this moment. A roller breaks the horizon. The shower has smoothed out the swell. The gentle beast grows and grows and grows. My shoulders drop with my hands resting on my thighs, totally relaxed, waiting to engage. Its teeth start to show. Reflexive action turns my body now mended to the board. Two, three, four strong strokes, then I'm flying. The rain strengthens almost totally washing out my vision. No matter, this engagement does not require much vision; my body can feel almost every square inch of this untamed monster. Time has stopped all together. Reality is no more than this wonder of nature and myself. I want to be there right now!